The Gateway to the West

Passing 100 or more guys tooling along in cars today, I had to wonder...are the jealous? Or are they so domesticated that they think two wheels in the interstate is crazy?

For their sakes, I hope they are jealous...

Dinner Out...On the road.

There is no I at the Inn

Ten years since THE September 11th. Ten years of travesty. Ten years of lost opportunity. Ten hate filled years. Ten years of fear mongering. Ten years of covering the still small voice of God with cries for blood...and blood we have had...and had...and had.

Ten years of throwing away what it means to be Americans...to say nothing of what it means to be Christians.

How can I be surprised. We take the simple-minded lie over the rich and messy truth all the time.  Parrot that "they hate us for our freedoms" rather than consider how our relentlessly, pervasive oppression might impact them. Just like we defame the innkeeper for turning Mary away...rather than saint him for putting Mary in the only clean, private room in town.

How different might the world be if we could put ourselves at the door to the inn and imagine what we would have done...rather than invent a villain to explain what we do not understand... Maybe if we could put ourselves in the shoes of others we could find a way to justice and peace.

Maybe every inn needs an I in it.

Sunset at Huffman Prarie

Walking the ground where the Wright Brothers actually taught themselves to fly...as well as the first pilots...who got a numbered card signed by the Wrights when they won their wings. Just over !00 year ago. Wow.

I Am Special Today...

(In case you were wondering.)

More Great Birthday

With the Phelps in Louisville!

Best Birthday Ever

Last night Balmorhea and Brother John played The Bishop in Bloomington, Indiana. The sets were wonderful, including a new piece Austin took the lead in co-writing with Travis Jeffords. The show wrapped up at midnight and the party moved to Austin's place where Travis Chapman and the rest of Balmorhea converged for celebration of a job well done and eventually, some well deserved rest. I was more than delighted to be invited to participate. Ashley, Travis J, Molly and Austin were gracious and engaging hosts and a fine time was had by all, particularly me, as you can see. I am a very proud and happy dad.

Accidents Happen at Home

So...1000 miles in less than 24 hours... Not a scratch. Park the bike for 6 hours and somebody backs into it, dumping it in the street. Jeez...really?

No critical damage. Just a bunch of scrapes and a little broken plastic...and trashed the right mirror. The good news? The Tip Over Bars from Motorcycle Larry did a great job. Not a scratch on the rear bags despite the bike falling so hard the wheels were completely off the ground.

First priority will be a new mirror...before the trip home.

Iron Butt Done

900 easy miles...then the last 100 took almost 3 hours. Thunderstorms...big lightning...curvy wet road in the dark...oh my. Thank God for a smartphone and wireless internet. I watched the storms forming on color radar and parked to let them pass...mostly.  (I miscalculated a little and got into about 1 mile of pelting rain before ducking into a truck stop...but was already in rain gear by then.) All's well. (Except 1000 miles on a motorcycle actually does give you a sore butt. Who knew?)

Iron Butt Route

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STella Got a Gremlin Bell

And it is the coolest looking Gremlin Bell EVER.  And since the girl who loves me best gave it to me, it is going to work GREAT!

(If you don't know about Gremlin Bells, read here: http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_a_gremlin_bell)

Sunset at Camp Chap - Junction

The evening festivities consisted of camp set-up, a quick run into town for BBQ (fair), a bit more set-up, a walk down to the Ranger talk, route planning for tomorrow, checking e-mail for emergencies, a shower and getting tucked in for bed. Pretty nice.
The Ranger talk was sweet. He opened with a 1956 Disney cartoon about park littering...directed by a Mr Hannah, I noticed. One of the lead characters looked a lot like a precursor to Yogi Bear. The talk itself covered all the park mammals...quite a list. Jan would have felt vindicated, as he introduced the various fuzzy-tailed rats (squirrels). I learn one brand new fact. Porcupines live in trees! In the tops of trees, to be precise. Who knew? The list of park mammals was really long. He covered a few of the animals no longer in the park too. Too bad Texas bears have been gone for about 100 years now.

South Llano River State Park

Despite being told repeatedly that all sites were full, I made the trek anyway and...found several open when I got here! Yea!
The ride in was not as hot as yesterday's ride to Lubbock...it peaked at 104 near San Angelo but was soon down to 102 and was a brisk 100 by the time I rolled into Junction.
Napping is next on my shady picnic table. It has a great view.

Hot as Hell

Departed Austin 11am. Warm.
Approaching Eden: 104 - 106
Approaching San Angelo: 106 - 108
Approaching Bronte: 108 - 111
Whew!

Politics in Bronte

Stripes is the local gas station and cafe. As such it is equipped with tables, chairs and talk. It is sadly, predictably, racist and right wing. I wish I could find something optimistic to say about it besides "At least they are old..."

The Great Shrinking Adventure

The Great Northwest Adventure is off...for now. Duty calls at work. Vacation is not in the stars just now... But the Good West Texas Adventure is on. North to Lubbock, south to Junction and back to Austin. It will be a great dress rehearsal. Long weekend Ho!

Five Days to Go

More prep today. Grocery shopping...waterproofed the tent fly...more packing.... The food bag is ready to go. All dried stuff. The First Aid kit is done after the addition of a pouch of QuickClot. It goes in the Camelback...along with other essentials. It looks it is all going to fit. Clothes are in plastic bags...as is bedding...and food. As soon as I get the bike washed it will be time to try loading again.

Countdown

With my scheduled departure now less than 12 days away, final preparations are becoming urgent...and competing interests are becoming more acute. Is it always this way with big adventures? Perhaps not. I suppose the out of work cowboy who got on his horse with a sack of beans, a box of shells and a bedroll may have found departure a little cleaner. Well, that's not me. Grocery shopping and assembling my kitchen and first aid gear are now at the head of the list...along with getting work down to a dull roar. Working both days this weekend made a dent in it. Let's hope it holds. 

The Last World War I Vet Dies

Top Stories

Perhaps we could honor the dead with peace rather than with war.

Because It's There?

With 23 days until departure I find myself wondering what compels me to take this trip.7000 miles by motorcycle is not exactly an expedition to Antarctica by canoe, but it is pretty far off the norm for my neighborhood.

They say regrets are not for the things you did in life but for the things you failed to do. At the highest level I can at least say that I own this compulsion enough to know I would deeply regret letting the chance pass me by if I found myself on my deathbed having not done it. But that still does not explain where it comes from.

Perhaps oddly, I have a sense that I owe it to somebody...to my predecessors...to the westbound pioneers who planted me in the Great American Southwest. I set my face for this trip in 1970...a scant 100 years since the heydays of the American West. Now, over 40 years later, almost half again further from those heady days, I hear them calling me to come see their land with their eyes...traveling into the sun with the wind in my face...before it's too late.

My great grand parents came to Texas in wagons. My grandfather drove from Oklahoma to California in a Model-T before there were highways and the trip required opening and closing the gates of the farms the road passed through. I spent years of my boyhood living within a stone's throw of the southwestern ends of Route 66, first in the California deserts of Victorville and then at the Texas end in Amarillo. How could I not need to travel west?

DC & STella Exit a Curve

I guess I have an even stronger sense that I owe this trip to my great grandchildren. I need to add to the legacy. I need to maintain the pace. In 2070, they need to be able to say "My great grandfather, when he was 57, rode a motorcycle from Texas to Canada...right up the spine of the Rockies. If he could do that, then surely I can ____."

Yea, I know. It's not curing cancer and it is not world peace...it is more visceral than that. What challenges await?

Maintenance Day

Departure day is coming up fast. STella is getting a full-on spa day...and then some. I started on Sunday...

- Oil & filter (Mobil1 10w40)
- Plugs (NKG Irridium)
- Air filter
- Final drive oil (Mobil1 gear oil)
- Coolant (Honda)
- Brake and clutch fluid

Brake fluid replacement...wow...so many bleed valves. Glad I got the service manual. When that is done, coolant and final drive will be next. Then STella gets good bath.

Trial Pack Day

With my great Northwest Adventure a few fleeting weeks away, the day has come for a trial pack…loading up my gear on STella to see how things work. I have put a great deal of thought into what gear to bring for this trek and how to manage it. I have set my schedule for 9 days up, 5 days in Vancouver (on business) and 9 days back. I expect to see temperatures that range from 100F to 30F. I plan to spend as much time in National Parks as I can, so lightweight camping gear is key to the plan.

STella has a nice set of hard bags and her previous owner popped for the stock Honda Pan-European top box that is available only in Europe at substantial expense (I am very pleased to have it.) Unfortunately that complement of cases cannot begin to hold camping gear, so after a great deal of study I have selected a set of North Face Base Camp Duffel Bags for the trip. The bags come highly recommended by adventure riders; have a lifetime warranty and removable backpacking straps…as well as a host of super strong loops for tie-downs. The North Face bags are remarkably tough, waterproof and come in several sizes. I selected a Medium and a Small.  The objective of today’s project is to see just what they can hold and how they fit onto the bike.

I selected the Medium Duffel for two main reasons. First, it seemed to fit the space available; the passenger seat. The bag diameter matches to seat depth and the bag length overhangs the seat width by only about 1.5” on each side. At that size I figured the bag might serve as a backrest and would not be sticking so far out in the breeze that it would hurt my gas mileage or make the bike unstable in the wind. The second reason was that the bag volume seemed to be a fair match for the total volume of the biggest pieces of camping gear I planned to carry. I expect that getting all that gear into one bag that I can put on my back will give me lots of flexibility when it comes to picking a campsite.

Results of the trial pack were quite good. The Medium Duffel swallowed:

• 20 degree mummy sleeping bag and cotton liner
• 2 man backpacking tent and plastic footprint
• 1.75” self-inflating sleeping pad
• 60 degree fleece sleeping bag
• Butterfly camp chair
• Jetboil™ cooking system & large fuel can
• One-man mess kit
• Collapsible Nalgene Canteen
• Aluminum 1 quart water bottle
• Aluminum coffee cup
• LED Mini Lantern 

And it looks like I will have room available for a few other small doo-dads to fill in the odd spaces left; so far so good.
My initial thought for the Small Duffel was that it would hold my coats. The volume of outerwear I am taking is somewhere between daunting and absurd…but given the range of weather conditions I can anticipate as my trip tales me from near sea level in Texas to over 10k feet in mountains and back to sea level again in Vancouver, I am reminded of the often repeated aphorism of outdoor adventurers “There is no such thing as bad weather, only bad equipment.” But the more I thought about daily life on the road, the more I realized that the Small Duffle bag was a sub-optimum place for most of my outerwear, most of which would go in and out of service relatively infrequently…and none of which needed to be carried into camp.

The hard cases on the bike are waterproof, lockable and removable. It is relatively easy to detach them and carry them like suitcases. Be that as it may it strikes me that the fact they are lockable and not back-packable makes them good candidates for the items that get infrequent use and/or are unlikely to be carried into a campsite or hotel room.  My clothes and personal care items, on the other hand, were much more likely to be needed every day, or more importantly, every night.

The Small Duffel swallowed: 

• One pair of Kevlar jeans
• 6 pairs of boot socks & 6 pairs of polypropylene liners
• 6 pairs of underwear
• 2 pair of hi-tech long johns with matching long sleeve undershirts
• 3 shirts and 6 t-shirts
• 1 Dopp kit
• 1 hi-tech backpacking bath towel
• 1 netbook computer

And there was room to spare for a little more stuff. 

So, with the bags loaded it was time to try them on the bike. I grabbed my usual nylon straps and got the Medium bag tied down and then tied down the Small bag. The result was ugly but fairly secure so I went to run some errands just to see how it worked.

After ugly, the next issue I noticed was that the Medium bag was too far forward and was pushing me too far forward on the seat. The tie down took three straps…one for each end and another to go around the back of the bike so the load could not come any farther forward. The Small Duffel also tended to shift forward.After considering and throwing out several ideas related to trying to use the passenger hand grips and/or passenger foot pegs for tie down points it finally occurred to me to remove the passenger seat to see what kind of solid structure might present itself. Fortunately the ST offers a steel tube framework under the seat that gave me a perfect spot for anchoring two straps. The straps are the 12’ x 1” variety and came with a friction buckle. With the passenger seat removed I was able to simply loop the straps around the rear section of the frame, just below the passenger seat, pass the straps straight up and reinstall the seat so that both ends of the each strap emerged at the left and right rear corners of the passenger seat. I paid out enough strap so that when the Medium Duffel was placed on the seat the buckle ends of the straps passed under the bag. The free ends of the straps passed over the bag so that when the straps were pulled tight the bag was pulled into the corner formed by the seat bottom and the seat back rest (the forward side of the top box). Cinching both straps not only very effectively secured the bag to the bike, they also compressed the bag exactly where it needed to get smaller so that it would no longer be too far forward for comfortable seating. The arrangement was effective and was very tidy; there were no ugly straps in view or out in the breeze to flap or make noise. I tried some yellow straps from Harbor Freight but happened to see some black ones at Walmart. (Believe it or not, I had to make a late night run for some ammo or I would not have ever been in there.) Anyway, the black straps look great.

The Small Duffel was my next objective. As I mentioned earlier, both the Small and Medium Base Camp Duffel Bags from North Face come with a rich compliment of tie-down loops. A trip to the local big-box sporting goods store produced four black nylon straps with quick-disconnect buckles. I installed the four straps to make an “X” to connect the bags; two connecting the front and two in the back. (See the photo.) The arrangement worked beautifully…very secure and very neat. An additional strap to insure that the top bag cannot pitch forward may be desirable, but for now the arrangement seems imminently adequate.

Note that other than the two straps that secure the medium bag to the passenger seat, I have installed a third strap. It goes around the small bag and prevents the bag stack from rotating forward during heavy braking…which I noticed the stack was tending to do during the test ride. Getting smacked in the back by my clothes bag in an emergency situation could not possibly improve the situation. The third strap should solve that problem.

A test ride proved the whole arrangement was working as planned, at least from a handling point of view. The day was very windy and traffic on the nearby freeway included cars, light trucks and semis…in other words, there was LOTS of turbulence and there were often significant and gusty cross-winds. Happily not only did the bike handle very well, handling actually improved. Riding with the top box installed, but without a passenger, results in very noticeable buffeting and a bit of a nervous feel on the road.  In fact, if it did not fit my briefcase perfectly for my daily commute, I would not leave it installed on the bike on a day to day basis. However with the duffel bags installed, the air gap between me and the top box was filled and those buffeting wind currents that usually caught the front of the top box simply could not do their mischief. Having the bags installed made for a significantly smoother ride despite the choppy air; again, so far, so good.

Another trial pack will be needed before departure. Outerwear, food and miscellaneous stuff need to go into the three hard-sided luggage boxes. I expect it to go well, but I need to give it a try.  Stay tuned.