The Roads Less Taken: TENMA

The Route

Today started with a brand new motorcycling experience...the bike was covered with ice. Brrr.

First leg was Silver Gate, WY to Red Lodge, WY across Beartooth Pass. It is reportedly one of the top 5 rides in the US...at least.

I waited until 9:30 to leave...just to let the snow clear from the Pass road. The views, even on the approach were stunning. As the road began to climb there was a big orange warning sign..."Road Work Ahead. Motorcycles Advised To Find Alternate Route." $%##@&***!!! But I decided to carry on...at least until forced to turn around.

Eventually other bikes came down the hill, reassuring me that all was not lost. As the road continued to climb the curves grew tighter and the drop-offs became more severe. As I climbed from 10k toward 11k, snow was clinging to the roadside and the temps dropped to 37F. The sky was brilliant blue, the sun was bright and the road was absolutely treacherous. It was awesome.

Over the crest I found the only paved turn-out and stopped. Several other bikes were parked and a fraternity of long haul bikers was gathered at the edge of the viewing area. Like may of the riders I met this week, most were from far away. On this stop one was from Richmond, West Virginia and another was from New Hampshire. They, like many I met, had been on the road for many weeks. The distance riders were on ST's like mine, BMWs (Enduros or road bikes) or Goldwings. There were LOTS of Harley riders, but almost all seemed to be short distance riders from nearby towns or had trailered their bikes to the area so they could ride there (wimps) and I have not seen a single Crotch-Rocket the whole trip (Thank God).
The trip back down the other side may have been more beautiful than the trip up. The mountains formed a deep valley. At one point I looked over the edge to my right only to see the roadway 200 feet below running at right angles to the path I was taking. I said to myself "It will be interesting to see how they managed that." It turned out that a few steep switchbacks later, sure enough, we were headed due north for Red Lodge.

Red Lodge surprised me. I expected a rural dump. What I got was a vibrant, well-to-do community cashing in on the tourist trade. Local art, craft brews and hot espresso...you know the type. Still, it was nice. I got a very good buffalo burger and pressed on for Missoula.

The first 45 minutes were rolling hills and sweeping curves. Great fun! Then came the 4 hour run to Missoula on I-90, where nobody takes the 75 mph speed limit very seriously...so I followed along.

I landed in the Motel 6 in Missoula, went to check in but forgot to turn off my lights. I discovered my error when I went back out but STella wouldn't start. (Motorcycle batteries are quite small and I have lots of lights.) I unloaded and fretted but remembered my AMA card (American Motorcycle Association) gives me free roadside assistance, so I called. The litany of account numbers took an age but right before they were ready to send a truck I tried to start STella one more time and she managed to kick over and start. (Batteries that have been experiencing heavy drain will often bounce back a little if allowed to rest a bit,) I left her idling, went to grab my helmet and then took a tour of Missoula so she could charge. What a hoppin' town. The streets were packed. There was outdoor live music in a half dozen spots and the town was really beautiful.

After I parked STella I got a shower and put on all fresh clothes (first fresh pants all trip) and walked back into downtown to the recommended restaurant, Ironhorse. A Jonny Cash impersonator was rocking in the parking lot. He was really great and had the crowd in the palm of his hand. I had a Maker's Mark Manhattan and a steak at the bar and both were great.

On the stroll back to the hotel I came across another street dance. There was an 8-piece white boy band with two drummers, sax, trumpet and keyboard wailing in another parking lot. The music was all covers...Stevie Wonder and assorted 80's disco but the crowd was wild for them. The band was perfect...very tight and they had great crowd sense. I stayed to the end of the show about 10:30 (yea, it is Missoula, I guess). One of the drummers was the band leader and vocalist. I pressed a 20 into his palm and praised their work. I hope they try to do some original work. They are great musicians.